With the improvement of domestic living standards, more […]
With the improvement of domestic living standards, more and more friends will choose silk fabrics when making clothes. The following is the sewing skills of silk fabrics shared by the editor, welcome everyone to read!
Selvedge and silk fabrics often involve selvedge and curling before production. The thin texture often makes many novices a headache. Introduce a personal experience here, which is to perform two stitching.
The universal presser foot is used for the first seaming, and the edge of the fabric is flat, and the zigzag stitch is used for quick sewing;
For the second time, change the crimping foot. Because the edge of the fabric has been sewn once, the tension is greatly increased, so the crimping becomes much easier. According to the hemming method of ordinary thickness fabric, it is easy to roll out beautiful edges.
Use a suitable needle
After repeated trials, the No. 9 German needle is the first choice. Because this needle is made of thin silk materials, etc., the cloth will not be broken, so there will be no threading phenomenon. In addition, there are no needle holes when knitting thin materials. These are places that other imported needles cannot reach.
Sewing thread is very important
For real silk, sewing thread is also very important. Imported silk thread (polyester filament) of No. 50 and No. 60 is a very good sewing thread. It is much thinner than ordinary polyester sewing thread, but its tensile strength is very good, and it is not easy to break when sewing.
Lower the feed dog
How to adjust the feed dog: Take the old machine as an example, it is better to adjust the feed dog to 0.4mm. The height of the feed dog of the old machine should be adjusted according to the fabric.
【Silk Noodle】: The height of the feeding dog is about 0.4mm
[Medium thickness fabric]: the height of the feeding teeth is 0.75mm
[Washing material, thick fabric]: the height of the feeding dog is 1.2mm
The commonly used height is about 0.7mm
Adjust the bobbin skin pressure of the bobbin case
Counterclockwise is to adjust the looseness, and clockwise is to tighten the tension of the thread.
Pinch the end of the thread with your hand and shake it lightly. The bobbin case will slowly fall. This situation is more appropriate.
Finally, adjust the tension of the bottom thread to make the bottom and top stitches the same up and down. When sewing, the needle size should not be too small. Use your hands to pull the flat garments together with the feeding teeth to naturally pull the garments forward.
All silk fabrics are shrunk before production, because the shrinkage rate of silk fabrics is between 4%-10%. If there is no pre-shrinking, after the clothes are made, there is no other choice except dry cleaning. NS. Special reminder, real silk fabrics must be soaked in cold water.
When shrinking, you can add some silk wool or softener to the water, which will not only clean the fabric, but also reduce the generation of static electricity.
The shrinking time is generally to choose four hours or more, so that the fabric is full of water, so that it will not shrink again in the future.
The fabric must be ironed flat before cutting. Put the silk lining in advance and then cut it. It is not recommended for novices to start with thin silk fabrics, such as silk georgette, silk chiffon, and silk ossa;
The first is the choice of needle size. In fact, not all silk fabrics need to be sewn with the finest sewing needle. The needle size can be selected according to the thickness of the fabric and your own sewing level. Generally speaking, the thinner the sewing material, the finer the sewing needle used
Generally, two types are often used: one is called water-soluble lining, and the other is special lining for real silk.
Water-soluble lining: As the name suggests, it is soluble in water. Generally, it increases the tension of the fabric when cutting or sewing, which can make cutting and sewing easier.
Silk lining: It is more commonly used, and it is used in many places when making silk garments. For example, silk linings are generally required to be applied to the waist, chest, and sewing areas of the silk cheongsam. On the one hand, it increases the thickness and toughness of the fabric, and on the other hand, it can also prevent the phenomenon of wire drawing during wearing.
Many silk fabrics are inseparable from the silk lining in cutting and sewing. For example, the silk twill requires special attention when making it. It cannot be pulled. Pulling will cause the fabric to deform. Therefore, attach the silk lining to the seam and edges of the fabric to prevent it. Deformed